Postcards from Spain

Vol. 7 - Sunday, November 4, 2007

On the road from Tolosa to BaraÑain

Well, I've got good news. We did it! The Rose Ensemble took first place in our division at the competition yesterday! I am immensely proud of this incredible achievement for so many reasons. One is because the group worked diligently on preparing for this competition. When we left the green room to go perform we looked at each other and said "we are ready." It was a wonderful moment. We were the last on the program and having to wait and wait for well over two hours was simply exhausting. Our adrenaline was pumping for so long and we just wanted to go out and sing. But that's what competitions are like; so different from performing a concert.

Walking down the aisle of the church as they announced our name, the audience cheered. We just couldn't believe how warm everyone was to us. We sang an extremely varied program of a Renaissance motet, two pieces of Slavic chant, a 19th-century German Kyrie, David Moore's arrangement of I Been in the Storm (featuring our own Mark Dietrich as the bass soloist) and our commissioned gem, Sergey Khvoshchinskiy's Bogoroditse Devo Raduysia. Mark really hit it out of the ball park (the audience was forbidden to applaud between pieces, but after we finished I Been in the Storm people started to applaud), but the defining moment was our final piece. I think we had never sung that piece with such feeling and sheer power. People stood and cheered when we were finished. I don't remember much more; I think I was just so taken by the whole experience that I only recall walking into the foyer and having a crowd of people around me. Wow. So exhilarating.

Of course, we knew we did well but we were forbidden to hear any of the other groups we were competing against, so we had no idea what to expect. A lot of people said that we had swept our category, but language like that always makes me nervous so I chose to be cautious for the rest of the day and focus on the competition we would take part in later that afternoon.

The final decision was announced late last night. It was in a huge arena where thousands of people had assembled. There were Basque dancers and musicians and the mayor gave a special reception for the directors of the choirs. It was all so incredible. The winners were announced over a loud speaker with accompanying results projected on a huge wall. 3rd place: a group from the UK ; second place: a group from Slovenia. By this time my heart was pounding so fast that I could hardly breathe. When they announced The Rose Ensemble of the USA as the winners, people were just screaming. It was all so unbelievable. We all hugged and kissed - the group was so proud - I just can't tell you the feeling. After we left the arena, the entire city was alive with the afterglow of this choral festival, and everywhere we went people stopped to congratulate us.

Oh, before I forget I should also mention that we placed second in our division for secular music! We were all a little surprised by this award, as this category is obviously not what we are known for. Personally speaking, I can safely say that the group rehearsed hard on this repertoire. And we sang quite well. We did have a slight pitch bobble on one of the pieces, which made us think that we had fumbled the competition. But according to several audience members I spoke to, the rest of the pieces were incredibly strong. The judges must have agreed, because the score cards I just reviewed show us only one point behind the first place winners (Slovenia).

So that's the story. 1st place winners in the sacred music category for professional ensembles. 2nd place winners in the secular music category for professional ensembles. I'm happy to say that we already received invitations to two festivals: one in France next summer and one in Brazil next September. The organizers in Tolosa said that more will be coming in. I spoke with the winners from last year's competition and they report having over 100 European concerts this year. Hold on to your hats, everyone.

Congrats to all my colleagues in The Rose Ensemble. And many, many thanks to all of you for your support and encouragement. We are all proud to have represented the US in this competition and to have performed several other concerts throughout Spain . After tonight's concert we'll have a free day and then we'll hit the road for Madrid at 3:00am (!) on Tuesday. We'll see many of you when we get back.

Fond regards to all
Jordan

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Vol. 6 - Friday, November 2, 2007

10:39pm - on the road from San Sebastian

Before anything, I must proclaim to the world the good news of Rose Ensemble bass Mark Dietrich's 40th birthday. I have had the good fortune of spending the last 13 years as Mark's friend and I very much look forward to the next 13. Congrats, Mark!

The last few days seem like a complete blur; we have been going and going. The competition has begun (although we haven't actually competed yet) and we've had the opportunity to hear some fine groups. Of course, we are still rehearsing and performing evening concerts, so things are pretty darn busy. But it has also been a wonderful time of sharing music with people from all over the world. The other night after the competition, we were being fed dinner (in what could only be described as an air hangar) and the choirs that competed that evening started their own "choral duel." First the Swedish choir sang, then the Slovenian choir, and back and forth. Within no time, The Rose Ensemble got involved. That particular evening ended with hearing the Slovenians sing Rachmaninoff in the parking lot. WOW! What a lovely memory to take home.

Tonight we performed in the beautiful ocean-side town of San Sebastian , where we had the good fortune of being presented in a church (19th century, I believe) with exceptionally good acoustics. The basses sounded ultra-deep, the sopranos soared and the crowd of 200+ (not bad for this smallish city) was incredibly attentive and enthusiastic. Our post-concert dinner was served in a local restaurant. The fare was typical: lots of cold red wine with plenty of French fries and fried meat. Yet the group is used to this by now and we're all quite satisfied. If something doesn't work out quite right we just say, "We're in Spain." In other words, we are fortunate to be able to be here and there's hardly a reason not to see the good side of just about any situation.

Well, tomorrow is the big day - the international choral competition in Tolosa. The groups in our category (16 voices or fewer) will compete with programs of sacred and secular music, and it all starts at 11:00am. We'll sing later in the afternoon and then there will be a special dinner, followed by the announcement of the winners at midnight. There are five other groups before us in each section of the competition, so we'll be waiting around a fair amount each time before we sing. But that will give us time to breathe and go over any tricky spots (we're also going to be doing several pieces memorized). I think we're ready. We've rehearsed this repertoire a lot, and even though much of it is outside our typical fare of early music (and our comfort zone), it's good for us to challenge ourselves.

Driving home from the concert this evening, the bus is eerily quiet. I don't think anyone is necessarily nervous, they just want to sing well tomorrow. I appreciate that so much. There's no real focus on winning, just wanting to do well (that's a big and important difference). Wish us luck!!

Fond regards to all,
Jordan

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Vol. 5 - Wednesday, October 31, 2007

A note from bass Mark Dietrich

Good day to everyone. We're still in Zarautz, and all is well. Actually, we're here for our entire stay, which is nice. A little bus travel, but having a home base is a comfort.

I think our hotel staff may be trying to kill us with food. They all seem very nice, of course, but it's clear they're up to something. Yesterday they even volunteered to do laundry for the group, since there doesn't seem to be an option for it in town. Our regular waitress even tracked down a couple of fuses for me (some things you just do not plug into a voltage converter).

Today we rehearse in the afternoon, and then we're off to Tolosa for the first time, where we will listen to some of the performers in other categories. We had a wonderful night on Monday hanging out with a choir from Brazil. They showed up at the same bar where we were being fed. We, our Basque hosts, and they all ended up singing, and we stayed until our bus drivers absolutely insisted on leaving or leaving us there. You know all that trite stuff about music being the universal language? Well....

Last night my wife Jennifer and I successfully negotiated a little Basque meat market. We got two different cheeses (the proprietor insisted on one of them) for a total of about half a pound, some fantastic sliced sausage that they call chorizo but doesn't really seem that way, and a fresh baguette to take back to the hotel. Our total was less than 6 euro. This is the way things should be.

Basque is a crazy language. It doesn't look or sound like anything. I asked Tim about the linguistic genealogy of this part of the world, and he replied, "Celtic, and no one knows."

I wonder if they play scrabble here. X would be worth way less.

Mark Dietrich

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Vol. 4 - Monday, October 29, 2007

on the road to and from Pamplona

I see I previously wrote that we are in San Sebastian tonight, which means I was just a little tired. We're in Pamplona tonight (San Sebastian is in a couple days). Speaking of tired, the group is indeed a little worn out, but definitely in good spirits. And I know what you all must be thinking - "Oh, those singers are just tired from all that eating and sight-seeing." But let me tell you something: this is really hard work. Jetlag is still somewhat of an issue, a couple of people are getting over colds, and this concert program is just plain exhausting. The latter is probably the most important reason to stress. This is the Slavic Wonders program (one of our most vocally demanding) and we're presenting it without the pieces of narration, which normally act as mini-breaks throughout the concert. Couple that with 5-minute intermissions (you heard me) and by the end of the program we are beat.

In spite of all that exhaustion from singing, long bus rides and getting to bed at the wee hours of the morning, the group's morale and stamina is strong. I have to say that this morning's rehearsal was one of the best we've had since we've been here. And the group knew it. I left feeling inspired by the amount of work these people have put in. There is a real feeling of excitement about representing the US at the competition on the 3rd. We have been able to commit to memory well over half of each program, which only further demonstrates my colleagues' level of dedication.

It's raining hard today and it's damp and chilly. We got a little wet today but we sang well. The concert was presented in a rather odd place. I don't exactly know what we were in but I think it was some sort of library complex that also had a theatre space, which was the chosen location of a choral music series. The hall seated about 250 and was perfect for theatre (a-hem) but not exactly vocal music. Absolutely no ring to the room, I must say, but we've been in this position before and the group rose to the challenge. We decided that it would be a good exercise for us to sing this kind of choral music in a dry room, forcing us to pay attention to intonation and vowels – something that often gets thrown away when we're performing in a live acoustical space. The result was satisfying. Yes, each final chord ended with a thump as it hit the floor, but it didn't matter. We were making music together and the audience clearly appreciated it. Shouts of "bravo" filled the room and the elongated applause after certain pieces made us want to sing even better. There's nothing better than moments like this for The Rose Ensemble, because we all believe in sharing the music, rather than just performing it. The concert ended on a grand note and I was presented with a lovely bouquet of fresh flowers. Wow, so nice!

The post-concert activities were simply wonderful. The presenters had heard a rumour about our "non-dinner experience" in Burgos (I guess news travels fast in the choral world here) and they were determined to show us a good time. We hopped in the bus and were whisked to the "Bar Don Basco" where we were served a light supper of salad and fried hake (with plenty of Navarre region wine). This place was straight out of a Knights of Columbus wedding reception: fluorescent lights, uncomfortable chairs, pinball machines in the distance…it was priceless. Soon after we started our meal a Brazilian choir arrived (they must have just performed somewhere else in Pamplona) and then the fun began. First, some very proud Basque members of the presenting party started singing (just gorgeous, 3-part folk songs); these were men from the concert administration who you would have never thought would sing. But they did, and it was so spontaneous and so beautiful. Truly a moment to remember for all of us.

Then the Brazilian choir started singing, and we were captivated. They sang with all the gusto one would expect, complete with that gorgeous Portuguese language, crazy rhythms and animation that only people steeped in sun and romance can get away with. It was mesmerizing. We returned the favor with our world premiere performance of Been in de Storm (arranged by David Moore, a Minnesotan), featuring our dear Mark Dietrich. It was fun to sing something like this (an American spiritual), which was outside our comfort zone. Our hearts sang, rather than our heads, which is the place I long for this group to be. More songs were traded, more toasts were offered, more attempts at speaking Spanish/English/Portuguese were made. I just love this.

We arrived back in Zarautz at 1:45am (getting better!) and agreed to rehearse after breakfast in the morning.

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Vol. 3 - Sunday, October 28, 2007

On the road to and from Burgos, Spain

Daylight Savings Time kicked in last night, which I was particularly happy about. The town square (the one just outside my window) started buzzing with activity at about 9:00pm and didn't stop until about 4:00am this morning. Dios mio. I also learned that the residents of the town of Zarautz are a singing people – and do so with great conviction, regardless of the time or place. Perhaps that is enough to say.

Breakfast was simple and divine: café con leche and warm, honey-topped croissants. The sun was incredibly lovely this morning as we left the hotel, and it stayed with us for the entire bus trip to Burgos. We are travelling southwest today to the region of Castile (as opposed to Borja, where we sang the other day, which is in the region of Aragón) and our eyes this time are attracted upwards toward the brilliant mountains on either side of the road. From time to time, we ourselves travel upwards and become covered in massive blankets of fog, only to swoop down again into the sunlight. It's magical to see the acres and acres of vineyards and olive groves. Olive trees are so lovely when planted in neat rows, and the grapevines are all now turning brilliant fall colors of orange and red.

I find myself thinking about the Txakoli Mark and I had at lunch yesterday in the neighboring village of Getaria. It's a dry white wine similar to the Portuguese Vinho Verde: slightly (and naturally) effervescent and incredibly refreshing. Txakoli is served in any kind of glass and is poured in a small stream, holding the bottle high above the glass. When the wine hits its destination (which, for the beginner, can be rather messy) it makes the most lovely fizzzzz, just begging you to enjoy. I've got to talk to Paul and Katrina at the Wine Thief about carrying this.

Our early arrival in Burgos was made possible again by twisting the arm of the bus company, and we're all very grateful for this. The town of Burgos itself is a spectacular city, but as I mentioned in my previous entry, the Las Huelgas Convent was the main reason for our wanting to spend some time in the city before our concert. Las Huelgas holds a special place in my heart as it houses a music manuscript from the 12 th century called Codex Las Huelgas which I've studied a fair amount. Additionally, as I mentioned in a previous entry, this royal convent was founded by Alfonso VIII (his wife was Eleanor of England, daughter of Richard II) and was an incredibly important institution for centuries. The complex itself is outstanding, with bold chapels and hallways, many of which are lined with the tombs of scores of children of the former monarchs. These tiny (and often very plainly decorated) stone coffins demonstrate how truly fragile life was and how common it was to lose even a royal child.

The symbols of the kingdoms of the medieval Spanish royalty could be found throughout the convent grounds. It didn't matter if it was a painting or a doorway or an altarpiece, the castle with three towers (Castile) and the great lion (León) were everywhere – and always symmetrically placed.I was happy to have most of the ensemble with me on this visit, as it put a lot of things into perspective for them (especially their better understanding of the kingdoms inherited by Alfonso X, 'el Sabio', who is responsible for the creation of the collection of music and manuscripts now known as the Cantigas de Santa Maria ). We were disappointed to learn that Codex Las Huelgas is not available for public viewing, but when the tour guide told us that she had been working there for 20 years and still hadn't seen it, I got the distinct impression that the nuns still cloistered there are just a little protective of their treasure. And rightly so.

The rest of Burgos is somewhat of a sleepy little town, but utterly beautiful. Complete with typical narrow streets and a magnificent Plaza Mayor (Town Square), the residents have access to the most gorgeous promenade that hugs the river (Rio Arianzón). It's a remarkably long, car-free zone that's lined with stunning sycamore trees that create a magically arched canopy. The autumn leaves seemed to fall in slow motion as we strolled along in the shade from the late afternoon sun – it was all just too beautiful. I have to laugh, because a couple of people told us it is only ever cloudy and windy in Burgos. But our day featured only the calmest breeze and a bright blue sky.

We were able to take about 45 minutes to pass through the Cathedral of Burgos, a magnificent medieval structure filled with enough art to stock two museums. I was in heaven, passing from chapel to chapel, admiring the various altarpieces, paintings, chalices and carved choir stalls. It was sensory overload for me. Even the main sacristy was a feast for the eyes; Kris and John stood there and just chuckled at how incredible it all was.

Our concert this evening was presented by a cultural center that seemed to house both a museum and a bank. It's called the Casa del Cordón and we performed in what they refer to as the "patio." This patio is a massive room built in 1485, which just so happens to be the exact place where Ferdinand and Isabella received Christopher Columbus (back from his second journey to the Americas) in 1497. Huge columns surround the perimeter of the room, making it feel almost like a Roman courtyard, but the ATM machines flashing in the back of the space were (understandably) cause for a few chuckles in the green room during intermission. We had an audience of 600+ people (with many standing in the back) and they smiled widely at us during much of the concert. I think we sang well this evening. The room's acoustics were a little dry once all those people came in, but we were able to put out a considerable amount of volume without sacrificing intonation. There was really nothing in the concert programs (which were beautifully printed, by the way) that said which country we are from. Given the Slavic repertoire, I think several people thought we were from Poland or Russia. Those audience members who did speak with us after the concert were rather surprised that we are from the US.

The organizers of the concert insisted that we not sell CDs (saying it was forbidden to sell anything in a bank) and turned out not to know anything about having to feed us dinner. We took it all in stride, thanking them for having us and strolling a few blocks away to a little café where we were able to find a decent bottle of Rioja for just 6.50 Euros, along with various plates of sea bass, fresh cheese and wine-soaked chorizo. Bus picked us up at 11:30pm and we arrived safely back in Zarautz at the ripe ol' hour of 2:30am.

Tomorrow we perform in San Sebastian and I'll try to write on the way home after the concert.

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Vol. 2 - Saturday, October 27, 2007

12:15pm – Zarautz, Spain

First things first: our luggage arrived. Thanks for all your notes of good wishes. I'm happy to try to keep you apprised of at least a few of our activities here on tour. Currently sitting in a very smoky little café overlooking the ocean.

I may have previously mentioned that while we're here in Zarautz (our home base) all our meals are covered by the presenters (the people who hired us to perform). And if we are out of town performing, dinner is included in a local restaurant. Yesterday was a little different, because while our lunch was technically covered in Zarautz (at our hotel) we all chose as a group to go to our first performance town (Borja) a little earlier in order to take in the feel of the city. This is one of the things I deeply appreciate about my colleagues: always wanting to explore a city rather than just waiting around in the hotel all day.

So we twisted the arm of the bus driver to take us several hours earlier than planned, which proved to be one of the best things we could have done. One reason is because the trip was long. Well over three hours, actually, but what a scenic trip. As we began to head south, the sun appeared for the first time and never stopped all day. This mountainous region and the long stretches of narrow roads provided some of the best views of the valleys below, sprinkled with villages and long patches of pastures dotted with grazing sheep.

We passed through several small towns, each with its own magnificent church, prompting an automatic response from the group "Let's sing there!" We were greeted in our destination city of Borja by representatives of the festival (the XXVII Jornadas Internacionales de Canto Coral en Aragón ) who promptly led us to the church to stow our things. Lunch in a restaurant next to the church immediately followed. Our hosts warned us that lunch would be 15 Euros each, which we of course agreed to (we later found out that this was slightly on the pricey side. Go figure). What followed none could have imagined. We were escorted downstairs to a cave-like portion of the restaurant where they had laid out a table that just begged for a culinary adventure.

1st course: paté served with a lovely red from the Borsao vineyard (it just so happens that Borsao is located in Borja and coincidently, we served wine from this maker at our going away reception!). 2nd course: a lovely salad of fresh greens with long slivers of boucheron (goat, I believe) and fresh tomatoes. 3rd course: squares of the most melt-in-your-mouth frittata , featuring fresh zucchini and pimentos. (Oh yeah, there was a Barsao rosé in here as well.) 4th course: a sauté of fresh wild mushrooms and local eggs (the color of the yoke said it all.) 5th course: a crepe with a mixture of pork, rice and anise. 6th course (main course): choice of lamb chops, hake (lovely white fish), quail, calamari (big!), fish croquettes with fries, beef or pork (I'm sure I missed something else in there). 7th course (dessert): choice of whiskey cake, flan, chocolate truffles (a plate of four!), lemon sorbet or hazelnut cake (again, I'm sure I missed something in there).

Okay, just to remind you, that was lunch.

After the meal but still in the restaurant, the director of the festival paid us a special visit (he was quite excited because our performance marked the opening of the week of concerts). He expressed his gratitude to us for coming to perform and, as a token of his appreciation, announced that he would arrange to have City Hall pick up our lunch tab. To express our gratitude, we sang him "Hawai'i Aloha." He started to cry and left looking completely moved by the experience. It was truly moving for all of us as well.

Lunch ended around 5:30pm (!) and it was announced that we must make haste and walk briskly to the Borsao winery, where they were keeping the building open in order to provide us with a private tour. Next stop, the local museum; surprise, surprise, they kept it open in order to provide us with a special tour of the religious works collection.

Now why did we come to Borja? Oh yes, the concert! We sang our hearts out in the most beautiful 12 th -century church of Santa Maria. The place was packed and the crowd was incredibly appreciative. I was presented by a city official a special crystal (heavy!) plaque with a personalized commemorative inscription and the audience stood to applaud us one last time. Post-concert, in the church sacristy, we were each given a special bottle of Borsao and I was given a HUGE bag of music that the director of the festival had edited. He clearly appreciated our choice of repertoire and seemed so proud to give me these scores. Can't wait to dig through everything after we return home.

Dinner in a local restaurant followed. More great wine, more lovely food, more city officials picking up the tab. After a sad goodbye to our dinner host, Maria-Angeles Martinéz Gómez, the bus rolled away at about 1:30am and we were safely back in our beds at the round ol' hour of 5:00am. Dear Lord.

Today is a free day, which is a good thing because I think the group is pretty exhausted. If we hadn't sung so well last night I would feel guilty for all the food and wine and private tours. That said, there is still a lot of work to do on the competition rep and I hope my distinguished colleagues are spending some time with their music.

Waking up this morning to the sound of children playing in the square below my window was a wonderful thing. But when the accordion player started just down the way and I began my morning walk through the narrow streets, I was reminded of how much I miss living in Europe. The way the pedestrian is king; the sleeping dog in the shop; the families strolling leisurely, stopping to talk; kids playing on the church steps; old men sharing a sip of spirits in an outdoor café; never, never, never being given the tab until you are ready to leave the restaurant…

Concert in Burgos tomorrow night. It's the former capital of ancient Castile and the home of the Las Huelgas convent, founded by Alfonso VIII and at one time home to over 100 noble nuns. Music from the manuscript, Codex Las Huelgas has been featured on our stage before, and I simply can't wait to see the town.

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Vol. 1 - Thursday, October 25, 2007

5:18am – Zarautz, Spain

It looks like I have slept all I can so I decided to take advantage of the jetlag and write you all a few lines. Hopefully, you'll find this update of some interest.

Our flight to Spain involved a few expected twists and turns, but I must say that this group is more or less ready for anything and we took it all in stride. Soon after we arrived at O'Hare, our Delta flight from Chicago-NYC (we would have then flown NYC-Madrid) got canceled due to a mechanical failure. Delta had the common sense to book us on another airline, so we actually ended up flying nonstop from Chicago to Madrid on Iberia Airlines.

It was hardly a glamorous flight, but we arrived in Madrid almost two hours earlier than planned, which proved to be time much-needed. Of course, as luck would have it, NONE of our luggage found us and it took a long time to process the paperwork. I wasn't the least bit surprised about the bags not finding us, I must say, but several folks weren't pleased (then again, who is ever pleased when their luggage is lost?). Anyway, we left Madrid with absolutely no luggage and at this point we still have no clue when it will find us. We are seriously hoping our bags will arrive before our concert tomorrow night.

The bus ride from Madrid to Zarautz was over 5 hours, so (needless to say), it was an exhausting trip for the group. But the scenery was incredible. And for those members of the ensemble familiar with the various town names, landscape and architecture of this region, so often described and depicted in the various medieval Spanish manuscripts (think the Cantigas de Santa Maria and the Compostela-related repertoire), it was a wonderful pleasure. As the geography became more mountainous and flocks of sheep began to appear on the Ireland-like slopes, I knew we were entering Basque country, which is where we definitely are right now.

Zarautz is a Basque town through and through, is situated on the Atlantic coast and is quite the little tourist village. Basque is the commonly spoken language here (although everyone also speaks Spanish).

Our penzion is only 50 meters from the beach (although the building is situated such that one has no idea the water is even close) and one can tell that during the summer this place is hopping. Cafes and bars line the beautiful (and wide) walkway that hugs the coast, and most of these buildings feature a generous amount of what looks like upper apartment/housing space. It is “cold” here now (for the locals anyway; we're actually quite content) and the off-season has definitely arrived. Several people have mentioned to me that it's normally fairly pricey to be here in the summer, but with the dollar what it is, everything seems expensive. It's a lovely town: typically walk-able and filled with little bars and restaurants and shops. I, for one, am looking forward to doing some exploring between rehearsals. Our presenters have organized all our meals (at least the ones we'll be eating here in Zarautz) in the penzion restaurant, which is incredibly convenient, and I'm told that our rehearsal space is only a 15-minute walk away.

Last night's dinner was served family-style, with huge plates of penne and red sauce kicking off the meal. This was followed by chicken wrapped in cheese, deep fried, and served with generous portions of French fries. Chilled Rioja (what they called “only regular wine”) was also featured, which I thought was pretty darn good.

There are, of course, some logistics to work out. Siesta is a real-live thing here (most everything closes from 1:00pm-4:00pm, breakfast isn't necessarily that important, typical lunch time is 2:00pm and most people start dinner around 10:00pm. We knew this of course (at least most of us did), but having to fit in 3 meals a day, enough rehearsal time, and travel time will take a lot of planning on my part. Some of the cities in which we're performing (Borja and Burgos, for example) are a good 3-hour drive away and I am trying to figure out how we will be able to fit in meal times, especially when our scheduled dinners won't happen until 11:00pm (after each evening concert), which will be often followed by a 3+ bus ride back to Zarautz.

Well, that's all my brain can handle right now. I'll try to give you updates as I am able.

Jordan

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